Testaccio Ristorante

The story of Trippa alla Romana is inherently tied to the history of Testaccio, the Roman meatmarket neighborhood of which Testaccio Ristorante takes its name. The Fifth Quarter (essentially, the entrails), were the part of the animal the butcher and peasants could have, after the nobility, clergy, military and merchant classes took their share of the animal—it’s often how the butcher got paid by these other classes for butchering their livestock.

In the spirit of the Testaccio neighborhood, lively and dynamic with its roots back to ancient Roman living, Trippa alla Romana was born, often with unique recipes in every Roman kitchen. But Chef Ivan Beacco stays true to the authentic recipe that’s no doubt centuries old. It’s the best way to introduce Roman comfort food to Americans trying this light pasta-like texture and braised succulent goodness. Try Trippa alla Romana to see what all the buzz is about—it’s satisfying and delicious, particularly in this blustery oncoming spring weather.

Testaccio Ristorante combines authentic Roman nose-to-tail comfort food with NYC flair. NY Times-favorite Chef Ivan Beacco’s* traditional recipes brings neighborhood feel to a modern space.

The New York Times and Corriere Della Sera both recently recognized the movement towards authentic Italian cooking, and towards Roman comfort food, Testaccio as a prime example. Chef Ivan Beacco’s diverse experience delivers sophisticated twists on traditional plates of extremely delicious and satisfying flavors. Clearly, authenticity makes its mark.

The Oxtail of Two Cities

Coda alla vaccinara is a modern Roman stew made of “oxtail” (in fact, usually veal tail) and various vegetables. The concept of «Quinto Quarto» or «fifth quarter» dates back to when the butcher was paid in kind with the entrails, hide, and tail of the animal. This «fifth quarter» was the only type of meat the proletariat could afford, after the nobles, clergy, the bourgeosie, and the soldiers all got their respective quarters. Butchers developed a way of turning their fee into a delicacy, and that’s how coda alla vaccinara came to be. Today, almost every Roman household has its unique recipe to cook coda, but at Testaccio of course, Chef Ivan Beacco starts with the true, traditional recipe and improvises from that foundation.

Cooking coda is usually a 3-stage process, in order to make the meat so tender it falls off the bone. It’s parboiled at first with celery, carrot and flavorings, then more complex influences such as soffritto and wine in the second stage, and lastly, herbs and spices round the flavor out; it’s often finished with pine nuts, spices, or just salt + pepper—touches unique to that Roman kitchen’s traditional recipe for coda. Chef Ivan likes to keep it simple and close to the authentic recipe. The end result is intense, braised full of flavor notes and so satisfying. Once you try, you’ll know why this is Roman comfort food at its finest. Succulent, sophisticated, superb.

Testaccio is the 20th district of Rome, deriving its name from Monte Testaccio—a man-made hill based on thousands of broken, ancient Roman vessels (amphorae).  It’s a down-to-earth workplace of ancient Rome that still holds its neighborhood friendly character, where one feels that everybody knows each other. Much like NYC’s meatpacking district of Rome, Testaccio’s hardworking exterior always extends a warm embrace amongst friends.

Now, Testaccio is a lively area of Rome, and the artificial mountain made of discarded Roman amphorae is a treasure-trove of typical Roman life for experts to explore. Still a lively area, Testaccio holds some of the most diverse restaurants and nightclubs of Rome.

Alviero Pirani, one of the owners, is from the Testaccio neighborhood of Rome, and with the support of Ivan Beacco, the executive chef and the other two partners, Paolo and Carlo Bordone, decided to open a restaurant that would recreate the magic of the Testaccio neighborhood. Remaking the industrial space and introducing recycled elements to build a cordial ambiance is yet another example of the typical Testaccio neighborhood tradition–who for over 2,000 years have always have created masterpieces of what today serves up—everything. Testaccio Ristorante in Long Island City has successfully transported the neighborhood feel halfway across the world from its heart in the center of Rome. Come visit us and see for yourself why Testaccio Ristorante NY is a special place to relax and enjoy.